5 Multi-Pitch Routes in Andalsnes That Separate Casual Climbers from Alpinists
The Romsdalen valley near Andalsnes hosts Europe's tallest vertical rock face and some of Scandinavia's most serious alpine climbing. These routes demand multi-day commitments, advanced big wall skills, and the ability to navigate loose gneiss in cold, damp conditions where rockfall is constant. Unlike sport crags, there are no quick escapes here.
1. Trollveggen Norwegian Route
The 1,100-meter Troll Wall remains Europe's tallest vertical rock face, first climbed in 1965 when Norwegian and British teams raced to the summit. The Norwegian Route takes 3-4 days and requires Grade VI skills with sections of 5.9 climbing across 1,300 meters. The north-facing gneiss stays cold year-round—ice fills cracks even in summer. Rockfall increased dramatically after 1998 collapses destroyed several routes. Winter ascents are common to avoid falling rock, though temperatures drop to -15°C. Approach from E136 road takes 2 hours up talus.
2. Romsdalshorn North Wall
Norway's most popular alpine route, Romsdalshorn's Nordveggen sees more traffic than its easier Normal Route. The 300-meter north face climbs 5-7 pitches at Grade 4- (Norwegian scale, roughly 5.4-5.5) with minimal fixed protection—you'll place your own gear and build belays. New stainless steel abseil anchors installed in 2018 simplified descent. Budget 8-10 hours round trip from Vengedalen parking. Arne Randers Heen climbed this peak 233 times between 1928-1991. Approach parking is 20 minutes from Andalsnes.
3. Store Trolltind Northeast Ridge
At 1,788 meters, Store Trolltind is the highest point on the Trolltindane ridge. The northeast wall route finishes on an exposed knife-edge ridge—mostly fourth-class scrambling but psychologically intense. From the summit, you look 1,000 meters straight down onto Troll Wall on one side and a massive glacier on the other. The Fiva Route on the east face (Grade IV-, 1,800 meters, 5-9 hours) is the classic line, accessed from Isterdalen valley. Expect sections of wet rock and continuous routefinding challenges.
4. Mongejura South Pillar
Probably Norway's most popular long trad route, Sydpilaren climbs 24 pitches over 900 meters up Mongejura's south face. Three pitches hit Norwegian Grade 6 (5.10), the rest stays 5.8-5.9 or easier. First climbed in 1981, the route sees steady traffic despite 11-20 hour car-to-car times. Rock quality is excellent except pitch 22, which stacks loose blocks. Only two fixed pegs on the entire route—bring a full trad rack. One-hour approach from Marstein village parking, west of the graveyard.
5. Store Venjetind
The 1,852-meter Store Venjetind is Romsdalsalpane's highest peak. The northeast ridge, first climbed in 1881 by William Cecil Slingsby, offers Grade 3 climbing accessed from Vengedalen. In 2021, Spanish mountain runner Kílian Jornet set the vertical kilometer record here: 28 minutes, 48 seconds. Less technical than neighboring peaks but requires solid alpine skills and navigation. The traverse of the Vengetind group combines multiple summits for experienced parties.
Practical notes: July-August offer the best conditions. Andalsnes has hotels and gear shops. The Rauma train from Oslo reaches Andalsnes in 6 hours. Expect frequent Atlantic storms even in summer—carry extra days of food.